크리스토퍼 레이번 오래된 군복을 재해석한 레인코트가 유명한 영국 브랜드!
가격은 레인점퍼 기준 60~120만원대.
2013SS
200%
meets Christopher Raeburn, the designer who makes sustainable
fashion – clothes made out of re-appropriated materials like military
fabrics, parachutes, and deconstructed military garments that have been
completely taken apart and reworked in his collections.
200%: What made you decide to make clothes out of re-appropriated material?
Christopher
Raeburn: I’ve always been fascinated by military fabrics particularly
as they lend itself to the right type of 'hardware', i.e., being
waterproof and windproof, which is the basis for outerwear. Also, I’ve
always been fascinated by outerwear. When you put the two elements
together it became a truly interesting concept, particularly in re-using
original garments to make something new. There is also something quite
poignant in the fact that we’re taking old military garments, something
that has been in a warehouse for up to 60 years, and giving it a
completely new life.
200%: The contacts of how to gain access to the material from the Military – how did that came about?
Christopher
Raeburn: I’ve been collecting pieces since I was 12, so I’ve built up a
lot of contacts over the years. I’m very fortunate that people often
contact me, as lots of people know about what I do – essentially people
are looking for things for me, which is really quite fantastic, and also
helps to keep the brand very fresh – with the continual search for new
fabrics. For our Spring/Summer 2011 collection we have a tyvek Swedish
snow camouflage – we haven’t put the holes in the fabric, they are the
original camouflage – which became the inspiration for a lot of the rest
of the Collection.
For
our Autumn/Winter 2011 collection we’re going to work with Victorinox,
who make the Swiss army knives. I’m working on a capsule collection with
them for A/W 2011 and it's an opportunity to broaden the range of
products and opportunity to work with a brand I have always loved.
200%: Does your interest in military have a connection to your family background?
Christopher
Raeburn: Not at all. I think it connects to my childhood. We lived in
the heart of the country in Kent, South East of England, with the
nearest shop being four distant. Thus, in the Summer myself, and my two
older brothers, went out exploring: my parents imposed one rule in that,
as long we were home by dark, there were no other ‘restrictions’ – this
meant we had adventures every day. I believe I've adapted that ‘view’
to the rest of my career with regard to how things develop (i.e. there
is no prescribed structure) as our adventures involved building stuff
and making thing, i.e. a natural progression. What I truly like is the
process – the fact that you’re researching something and then going all
the way through to a final product that is, hopefully, commercially
viable and also very appealing.
200%:
Your clothes are made from recycled material, but you don’t see it in
the end product as it looks brand new, elegant and sophisticated.
Christopher
Raeburn: Ultimately, whilst being a sustainable designer, your product
still has to be sell-able. In order for it to be appealing, taking
account of the consumer views (re sustainability) garments still have to
look new or considered: certainly my work has always been design-led
first, and the fabrics come with it. For me, therefore, it's really
important that the design is correct. Thus, I tend to try to use
fabrics that will help to make the garments more special.
With
my fabrics it's really a happy accident – I didn’t necessarily set out
to be a sustainable or ethical designer, it's just I love the fabrics,
and when you put that together, with the [current] combination of
manufacturing ethos in London, and the right design, aesthetically it
works quite well.
200%: Your career in fashion is going quite fast, isn’t it?
Christopher
Raeburn: Yes, this is actually my third season, the second one at
London Fashion Week. It is the second time I’ve been here through the
NEWGEN scheme and doing the re-appropriated fabric design. I started
with that [re-appropriated fabric design] when I was on my Degree
course, which was 8 years ago. Also, I undertook more work on this when I
studied for my Masters at the Royal College of Art; subsequently, I
spent a further two years working for other designers, freelance pattern
cutting and designing. During that period I thought about what I wanted
to do and here I am now two years later putting that into practice so
it is actually a quite a quick process. I’m now the first designer that
has won women and menswear NEWGEN in one season.
